A Short Jaunt to Buffalo

This was our fourth visit to the city of Buffalo, NY.  However, our last visit was in 1983.  Yes, you read that correctly.  We only live about five hours away, but we have not visited the city in over 30 years!  Back then we were drawn to Buffalo by the Albright Knox Gallery, one of the nation's distinguished art museums.  This time it was art again that took us back, but to a newer gallery across the street from the main one.

Our visit was a short one, consisting of Friday evening and Saturday up to just beyond the noon hour. There wasn't much time for anything except a brewpub and the art exhibit we came to see.  We crossed the river from Fort Erie on the Peace Bridge, and not only was it toll-free, but we got right up to a customs booth.  The custom inspector was very friendly and we were soon downtown and at our hotel.  We stayed at one of those big, anonymous hotels that are usually too expensive.  Adams Mark Hotel is right downtown, and we snagged a good internet rate. Our room was lovely, very comfortable, had great views eastward from our sixth floor room, and it turned out to be very quiet, too.  Full marks for this place!

Five minutes walk from the front door is Pearl Street Grill and Brewery.  Located in a beautifully restored old canal-era building, this place was hopping on a Friday night at 6:30 pm.  However, we got in and were seated immediately.  There were good veg selections on the menu, and the beer list was very appetizing.  I ended up having three 10 oz glasses of their beer.  I began with this one:

Scotch Ale  6.5% ABV                      

20 SRM  10 IBU's  FG 1.024

A staff favorite, this big, sweet, chewy scotch ale goes perfect with turkey dinners and the first snow fall.  It's not a strong beer, it's just a Wee Heavy...

It was rich and tasty, just what I wanted!  My second glass contained this one:

Street Brawler 
Our Oatmeal Stout, Street Brawler is dark and roasted with flavors of chocolate and black coffee. It is hopped with traditional English hops that together with the oats serve to round out the edges and give this beer a smooth finish.

Again, it was full-bodied and filled with flavour.  It is worth brawling for.  After dinner (I had a ten-pound bean burger; Deb had a huge salad) I enjoyed this minty treat:

Chocolate Stout  Street Brawler's smooth, dark, richness is accented by the sweet fullness of chocolate.

I took a wander around the place.  There were a lot of private parties going on.  The building is old and full of magic, and there isn't a bad seat in the house.  There are four floors of mayhem (at least on a busy night).  Highly recommended for hungry and thirsty visitors!

Beer board at Pearl Street Grill, Buffalo

Next morning, after a breakfast of oatmeal and bagels and tea at a downtown Starbucks, we made our way to the gallery.  We drove up Elmwood, a very fun street filled with shops, parks, good houses, people and cars.  We stopped at a pet store before continuing on to our destination.

2014 Buffalo Skyline shot, from Wikipedia.  Our Adams Mark Hotel can be seen in the right corner, a long, low gray building just above the brown one in the very corner.

The Burchfield Penney Art Center is a place we have been wanting to visit for a long time. Home to the largest collection of paintings by Charles Burchfield, they had a special exhibit on of his landscapes, many of them borrowed from other museums for this show.  He is one of the greatest American painters of the 20th C., though he was nearly drowned out by the likes of Jackson Pollock and other modern artists.  This museum and their exhibits go a long way in restoring his position as one of the foremost artists of his time.  We had recently seen over a dozen of his works exhibited in Detroit (DIA, permanent collection), and were ready for more. It was a great show, small in scale ( 3 rooms, though containing 88 works) and we were the only people there on Saturday morning!  Talk about a private showing.

Burchfield Penney Art Center, Buffalo.  It is right

across the street from the Albright Knox Gallery.

Entrance to the art center, showing the poster for 

the exhibit we would see today.

The exhibit held many breathtaking works, some of them quite large.  I have included a few of my own (flashless) photographs of some of the works that appealed to me, but by no means all of them.  The really interesting thing about Burchfield is that his journals are as interesting as his paintings.  The two, in fact, should be taken together.  We purchased the catalogue, as well as another picture book of some of his greatest works.  I am amazed that the Detroit works are virtually unknown; they are of extreme high quality.  Likely due to their fragile nature (watercolours) and the fact that they were just recently on display explains their absence in this show.

Late Winter Dawn, Burchfield

Spiro Collection, NY

East Wind and Winter Sun, Burchfield

Baltimore Museum of Art

Deserted Miner's Home, Burchfield

Burchfield Penney Art Center

The Glory of Spring, Burchfield

Burchfield Penney Art Center

Night Hawks at Twilight, Burchfield

Flint Institute of Arts, MI

Early Spring, Burchfield

Burchfield Penney Art Center

In spring 2015 there will be another exhibit of Burchfield's works here at the Art Center, and we hope to attend.  That exhibit will focus on his attempts to put sound into his pictures, and the techniques he used to accomplish this effect.

We left the gallery just before noon (it opened at 10 am) and headed to the University Heights district for lunch.  Deb had found out about Amy's Place diner on-line before our departure. Though it serves meat, it is a very vegan-friendly place, the best one in Buffalo.  We had a great lunch, and there was so much to choose from.  It's best described as a little hole-in-the-wall; it's an old-fashioned place, but it was bustling and very popular with locals.

Amy's Place, Buffalo.  We enjoyed a great lunch!

Right after lunch it was time to head back home.  The next day was to be our all-day Winter Solstice event at home, and we wanted to be in early tonight to make final preparations.  It was a sunny and mild day, and the drive was uneventful except for a major sneezing and sinus attack that came upon me halfway home, one that continued until bedtime.  Go figure.

Mapman

Detroit--What's There?

With a title like that, this could be a very long blog entry.  Instead, I will start to describe some of the things we do here.  We have been coming to Detroit since early 1977.  They were half finished building the Ren Cen.  Hudson's was still bustling.  Etc.  The 80s and 90s tore the heart out of Detroit, but we kept on coming over, mainly for the Detroit Symphony Concerts and the galleries at the Detroit Institute of Arts.  In the last 10 years Detroit has begun coming back, and lately with a vengeance.  While parts of the city still look worse than Dresden after the bombing, other parts rival anything that London, New York, Chicago or any other great city can offer.

Detroit is more than a big city, as it is made up of dozens of smaller cities, villages and townships, many with a character all their own.  Further afield is Ann Arbor, though still statistically part of the Metro area.  It is our favourite short term getaway after Detroit.  Home to the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor is also home to some of the best culture anywhere in the world, with music, theatre, cinema and dance events going on seven days a week.  In addition it is still loaded with bookstores (remember them?), cafes, brewpubs, and just pubs, most serving high quality craft beer.  We visit at least four times a year, sometimes for a few days and nights.

On a recent visit to Ann Arbor, I only went to one brewpub!  Usually I visit three or four, but this was just a day trip.  Four downtown places have cask ale on all the time, so it doesn't much matter to me which one I'm at.  This time it was Grizzly Peak Brewing Co.  They usually have an IPA on cask, as well as something experimental.  I had the experimental one.  It was an American Mild FHDA, with Centennial and Cascade hops.  Me like.  Very much.  It reminded me (despite the name) of many fine ales I have enjoyed in merrie olde englande.

 

Beer board at Grizzly Peak, Ann Arbor

Earthen Jar in downtown Ann Arbor is one of 

very best veg restaurants to ever exist.  WE LOVE IT!

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Being on the Detroit River, some of the suburbs are "downriver" from Detroit.  One of these is called Lincoln Park.  It is home to Fort Street Brewery, and they are a wonderful bunch of people in there.  Thursday nights are cask ale nights, with a different cask opened each week at 8 pm.  Last week they had a really fabulous sounding one, but we couldn't get there.  We went Friday for lunch instead.  They almost always have lots left over for next day.  Not this time--the Thursday night crowd drank every last drop!  No matter, there is always something good on.  And they always have great food, even for us vegans!  I drank Scottish Ale and had a veg pastry pie and their famous perogies!

Fort Street Brewery, on a very quiet Friday lunchtime.

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Earlier in the autumn we paid a visit to Detroit Brewing Co., right downtown and across the street from the Detroit Opera House (where they perform operas!).  The brewery has been here for many years, and when the Tigers or Lions are playing downtown, it's hard to get in the door.  They do well before and after the opera, too.  It can be quiet inside some days, though to me this is a great bonus.

Detroit Brewing Co. hides behind the October

foliage.  The People Mover structure passes in front. 

 A welcome place in downtown Detroit.

Late October beer menu. 

I enjoyed a glass of Crooked Grill, an ESB.

It was hoppy and bitter, just like it says.

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I will likely do a blog or two eventually on different downtown districts, including Mid-town, where this blog is now headed.  It's always exciting when a new pub opens in a favourite area of the city.  I attended Wayne State University in Detroit for 6 years (part time) to earn an M. Mus. degree, so I got to know the area pretty well.  However, it has changed so much since back then that if I hadn't kept coming back here I would barely recognize the place now.  Nearly every vacant building has been rehabbed or is undergoing rehab.  New buildings are popping up in lots that have stood empty since I first started coming over here.  A streetcar line is being built on Woodward Ave.  People are not only flocking here for the bars, cafes, shops, concerts, museums etc., but are actually living here in some of the funkiest lofts and apartments this side of Paris.

Anyway, the new pub is called Hopcat, and it is part of a small chain that began in Grand Rapids, MI.  The Detroit pub is their fourth and largest, and features 130 craft taps.  Yup.  130.  That includes a few ciders and meads.  Try walking in and choosing a pint.  They opened last Saturday at 11 am (11 12/13-14 was their opening two-day party).  We took a swing by on Saturday just after 11, and this is what we saw.

Hopcat, Detroit.  Front of the line.

Hopcat, Detroit.  Rest of the line.  The line was the

same at 6 pm.  Needless to say we went elsewhere.

However, we did get in today (Monday) around 1:30 pm!  Huzzah!!  We had an enjoyable visit, and I will certainly be back again (next Monday--watch for it here).

Sitting at the bar, looking at Heaven. 

From the bar, looking towards Woodward Ave.

The joint was hopping.  I think it's going to be

another Slow's (different blog, later).

I began my visit with #46.  OMG!!!  5 *s!!

I followed up with #41.  Not as deep and rich, but

still a lovely beer.

Just up the street from Hopcat are two fine brewpubs:  Traffic Jam, and Motor City.  Opening here in the spring will be Jolly Pumpkin, a justly famous MI microbrewery!  Detroit rocks!

It's nice to be able to park the car and walk to so many pubs, cafes, and stores.  And it just keeps on getting better and better.  We even saw bicycle cops!  In Detroit!  We walked over to Avalon Bakery for coffee and cookies (vegan choices available), looking forward to next Monday's pub crawl here with friends.  And this weekend we are off to Buffalo for a brief visit, to see an art exhibit and hopefully visit at least one downtown brewpub.  Keep watching here for all the exciting details!

Mapman

Back alley door, Detroit.

Mapman Mike

Detroit: Day of the Dead

Our weekly visit to Detroit had a different twist to it today.  Each year on Nov. 1st we have a  little ritual which we enact.  We begin at the Detroit Institute of Arts with a visit to the Offrenda exhibit, now an annual highlight of the museum's exhibition calendar.  This year's show was bigger and better than ever.  Here are a few photos showing some of the Spanish/Mexican/American Offrendas on display.

Several of the Offrendas on display at the DIA.

  

Also at the DIA, and visiting from the Musee D'Orsay

in Paris is Monet's Water Lilies!  Photography was

allowed!  It is a remarkable painting; very meditative.

Delius (English composer who lived in France) had

a similar garden, and his music often seems related in

mood and spirit.

     After visiting the museum, we always head up to Woodlawn Cemetery, one of the major Detroit cemeteries.  A stroll through Woodlawn is an adventure in marble.  It is beautifully landscaped and very fun to visit...

Woodlawn Cemetery, Detroit

Deb on the main "street."

Some of the tombs.

Stained glass on back wall of tomb.

The Dodge Mausoleum.

Woodlawn Cemetery, Detroit.

Woodlawn Cemetery, Detroit

     After a very chilly, breezy walk through part of the cemetery (it is huge), we went to nearby Ferndale for lunch, to Woodward Avenue Brewery.  This is also part of the tradition, as this time of year they usually have some yummy dark beers.  They also have many vegan options on their menu.

Today's beer menu at WAB

My pint of Maple Brown Ale.  Yum (*** stars)!

The bar at WAB.  There was also a movie crew in here 

today, filming (not shown).

Intersection of Woodward Ave. and 9 Mile Rd.

This is a very fun area, with bars, restaurants, 

independent shops, cafes, book and comic stores, etc

This is the view from the brewpub windows.

Our vegan pizza at WAB!

     We also have an Offrenda at home during this season.  Here are a few images of ours.  Our new tablecloth is courtesy of my cousin, Cathy.  The shot glass is from the memorial service for her late husband, Moreno.  Last night it had Laphroig Whiskey in it.

Our in-house Offrenda this year.

Offrenda.

Part of our Offrenda.

     Tune in next week, when I hope to attend Brew-Ha-Ha at Fort Street Brewery!

Mapman.

Indiana, Part 4 (Conclusion)

Selfie at the bar inside Brick House Grill

     The Brick House Grille in downtown Huntington, Indiana was quiet on a late Monday afternoon.  They had several craft beer taps, as well as bottles.  I opted for another pumpkin ale, this one called Kentucky Pumpkin Barrel Ale.  At 10% alcohol, this is served in a 10 oz glass, and is made for sipping.  Damn, that was one fine beer!  I guess that another name for this weekend trip could be "The Pumpkin Ale Trale (or perhaps Trail, but that doesn't rhyme as well).  Anyway, I sipped to my heart's content.  As I neared the bottom of the glass I felt more and more like taking up residence at the keyboard of the currently vacant piano bar.  I'm certain the few patrons present would not have minded hearing a bit of Beethoven, Couperin, Liszt or Philip Glass from a slightly tipsy classical pianist.

Kentucky Pumpkin Barrel Ale (**** stars)

     There is a figurine of sorts in the above photo, too.  It resembles me a lot, and the tiny thing seems to be dipping something into the glass, perhaps contemplating a swim (or maybe it's just me holding the camera steady).  The beer packed a nice spicy kick.  Afterwards, Deb drove us back to the Quality Inn and we had dinner in our room.  I had a large left over half of a delicious sandwich in the fridge from yesterday's dinner at Mad Anthony's.  Deb had bought herself an Udon Noodle microwave dish at Kroeger.  We settled in for a night of reading, resting, and 6000 channel tv.

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     Next morning dawned dark, cloudy, wet, and generally crappy.  We had hoped to visit downtown Huntington (the courthouse was open today) and do some local walking trails.  I was also holding out hope that there would be time to visit Bryon, Ohio on the way home.  Another fine courthouse awaited, and an intriguing-sounding brewpub.  After our motel breakfast (oatmeal, toast, juice, tea) we drove the short distance to downtown Huntington.  It was mighty quiet.  We parked and walked down to the river.  The bridge here is large, as the river is very wide.  An island sits amidst the river, and the bridge crosses it as well as the two parts of the river.  By the time we headed back towards the courthouse, it was raining.

Inside the courthouse, Huntington, IN (pop. 17,400)

  Beorn is parked downtown.  The building on right

was undergoing major renovations.

     We had to pass through a metal detector to visit the courthouse.  One of the deputies was very friendly, and as soon as he found out we were tourists he came over to talk to us.  He told us where to find the local museum and the full history of the courthouse.  Everyone we met in these small towns was very friendly, especially in the downtown tourist info buildings.  The main street has no traffic lights, and is very pedestrian friendly.  Because of the rain, and because I needed a haircut, I couldn't resist a walk-in stylists' window add promising haircuts for $10.  I looked even more handsome than usual when I walked out of there.  

     It quickly became evident that this was not going to be an outdoorsy kind of day.  There were a few other fine pubs and cafes in town I wished to visit, but we had to be home today. Rather than hang around Huntington and watch the rain, we headed for Bryan, Ohio, which was about halfway home.  Coffee and beer in Bryan sounded good, so we left Huntington with some reluctance, hoping to return with our bikes some fine spring day.

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     It rained heavily all the way to Ohio.  Well before exploring some of Indiana, we had extensively visited dozens of small towns in Ohio over the years, as well as their four big cities (Cincinnati, Cleveland, Columbus, and Toledo).  Northwest Ohio was our specialty, especially the towns along the Maumee River.  However, somehow we had never made it to Bryan.  I was looking forward to my first visit.  The particular brew pub we were searching for closed from 2 pm till 5 pm (much like traditional English pubs), so I wanted to arrive around noon hour if possible.

     The heavy rain stopped during our short visit to town, but it was still raining.  Bryan feels like a city, more so than any of the other smaller centers visited on this trip (Napoleon, Defiance, Huntington, Wabash, and Peru).  A wide main street (north-south) passes the courthouse, but a second busy street passes east-west.  These streets are lined with storefronts, but the rear of the courthouse has a quieter street with some shops, as does the south side.  So the downtown area is spread around the four sides of the courthouse, and we explored the entire area.

Courthouse in Bryan, Ohio (pop. 8,500)

Another view of the courthouse in Bryan.

     We arrived shortly after noon, spending a bit of time exploring the courthouse.  A lot of impressive detail went into the creating of these old buildings, and this one was no exception. We wandered around freely (no metal detector), then headed for lunch.  

 Courthouse interior.

Courthouse interior

     Deb had spotted the brewpub on our drive around the courthouse.  It's on the southwestern edge of the central plaza, a block from the courthouse.  It's in an old church, and it's called Father John's.  It turned into one of the greatest pub visits this avid pub-goer has ever had!

     The church had sat vacant for around ten years before the owner decided what he wanted to do with it.  He created a very atmospheric restaurant and brewery in the basement.  In so doing he has created a destination brewpub, worth visiting from Detroit.  I can't wait to get back here and try the rest of the beers!

Part of the bar at Father John's Brewpub.

     We weren't certain we could find something to eat.  However, today's soup was a vegan squash, and Deb ordered a bowl of it.  I ordered their veggie bean burger and was not disappointed.  I also ordered Pumpkin Pie Ale, continuing a theme I had been following for the entire trip.  Though loaded with spices and quite good (***), it fell behind all the other great pumpkin ales I had over the past three days.  As I would be driving home afterwards, I only had one pint.  Check out the beer menu and try to guess why I wish to return here, soon.

Beer Menu, Father John's, Bryan, Ohio

Interior of Father John's

Buddhist Room at Father John's!

     Some serious time and money was spent getting this incredible space ready.  The basement is quite large, and divided into different spaces. There are at least two separate rooms besides the large room, which itself is divided into smaller, cozy spaces.  The bar is in the shape of a large horseshoe, and is spacious and has comfortable stools.  They don't bottle, but they do sell growlers of their ales.  Details abound, and I took more than one walk around.  The garden has a wonderful outdoor seating area for fine days, too.  This was a spectacular way to end a very fun trip.

     We strolled the downtown areas after lunch, finding Seasons Coffee and Bistro on Main Street across from the courthouse.  We had coffee before leaving for home.  The drive back to Detroit was a nightmare, with downpour after downpour hitting us on the I 80 Tollway and then I 75 north.  Construction on both highways did not help matters.  Still, I had fresh memories of Father John's in my head.  We'll be back, hopefully with friends.  I rounded out my six pack purchases with Crooked Tree IPA from a favorite Michigan brewery, and six singles, including two with ginger!  A bottle of single malt Scotch at the duty free store in Detroit completed my alcohol purchases.

Mapman Mike