With a title like that, this could be a very long blog entry. Instead, I will start to describe some of the things we do here. We have been coming to Detroit since early 1977. They were half finished building the Ren Cen. Hudson's was still bustling. Etc. The 80s and 90s tore the heart out of Detroit, but we kept on coming over, mainly for the Detroit Symphony Concerts and the galleries at the Detroit Institute of Arts. In the last 10 years Detroit has begun coming back, and lately with a vengeance. While parts of the city still look worse than Dresden after the bombing, other parts rival anything that London, New York, Chicago or any other great city can offer.
Detroit is more than a big city, as it is made up of dozens of smaller cities, villages and townships, many with a character all their own. Further afield is Ann Arbor, though still statistically part of the Metro area. It is our favourite short term getaway after Detroit. Home to the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor is also home to some of the best culture anywhere in the world, with music, theatre, cinema and dance events going on seven days a week. In addition it is still loaded with bookstores (remember them?), cafes, brewpubs, and just pubs, most serving high quality craft beer. We visit at least four times a year, sometimes for a few days and nights.
On a recent visit to Ann Arbor, I only went to one brewpub! Usually I visit three or four, but this was just a day trip. Four downtown places have cask ale on all the time, so it doesn't much matter to me which one I'm at. This time it was Grizzly Peak Brewing Co. They usually have an IPA on cask, as well as something experimental. I had the experimental one. It was an American Mild FHDA, with Centennial and Cascade hops. Me like. Very much. It reminded me (despite the name) of many fine ales I have enjoyed in merrie olde englande.
Being on the Detroit River, some of the suburbs are "downriver" from Detroit. One of these is called Lincoln Park. It is home to Fort Street Brewery, and they are a wonderful bunch of people in there. Thursday nights are cask ale nights, with a different cask opened each week at 8 pm. Last week they had a really fabulous sounding one, but we couldn't get there. We went Friday for lunch instead. They almost always have lots left over for next day. Not this time--the Thursday night crowd drank every last drop! No matter, there is always something good on. And they always have great food, even for us vegans! I drank Scottish Ale and had a veg pastry pie and their famous perogies!
On a recent visit to Ann Arbor, I only went to one brewpub! Usually I visit three or four, but this was just a day trip. Four downtown places have cask ale on all the time, so it doesn't much matter to me which one I'm at. This time it was Grizzly Peak Brewing Co. They usually have an IPA on cask, as well as something experimental. I had the experimental one. It was an American Mild FHDA, with Centennial and Cascade hops. Me like. Very much. It reminded me (despite the name) of many fine ales I have enjoyed in merrie olde englande.
Beer board at Grizzly Peak, Ann Arbor
Earthen Jar in downtown Ann Arbor is one of
very best veg restaurants to ever exist. WE LOVE IT!
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Fort Street Brewery, on a very quiet Friday lunchtime.
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Earlier in the autumn we paid a visit to Detroit Brewing Co., right downtown and across the street from the Detroit Opera House (where they perform operas!). The brewery has been here for many years, and when the Tigers or Lions are playing downtown, it's hard to get in the door. They do well before and after the opera, too. It can be quiet inside some days, though to me this is a great bonus.
Detroit Brewing Co. hides behind the October
foliage. The People Mover structure passes in front.
A welcome place in downtown Detroit.
Late October beer menu.
I enjoyed a glass of Crooked Grill, an ESB.
It was hoppy and bitter, just like it says.
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I will likely do a blog or two eventually on different downtown districts, including Mid-town, where this blog is now headed. It's always exciting when a new pub opens in a favourite area of the city. I attended Wayne State University in Detroit for 6 years (part time) to earn an M. Mus. degree, so I got to know the area pretty well. However, it has changed so much since back then that if I hadn't kept coming back here I would barely recognize the place now. Nearly every vacant building has been rehabbed or is undergoing rehab. New buildings are popping up in lots that have stood empty since I first started coming over here. A streetcar line is being built on Woodward Ave. People are not only flocking here for the bars, cafes, shops, concerts, museums etc., but are actually living here in some of the funkiest lofts and apartments this side of Paris.
Anyway, the new pub is called Hopcat, and it is part of a small chain that began in Grand Rapids, MI. The Detroit pub is their fourth and largest, and features 130 craft taps. Yup. 130. That includes a few ciders and meads. Try walking in and choosing a pint. They opened last Saturday at 11 am (11 12/13-14 was their opening two-day party). We took a swing by on Saturday just after 11, and this is what we saw.
Hopcat, Detroit. Front of the line.
Hopcat, Detroit. Rest of the line. The line was the
same at 6 pm. Needless to say we went elsewhere.
However, we did get in today (Monday) around 1:30 pm! Huzzah!! We had an enjoyable visit, and I will certainly be back again (next Monday--watch for it here).
Sitting at the bar, looking at Heaven.
From the bar, looking towards Woodward Ave.
The joint was hopping. I think it's going to be
another Slow's (different blog, later).
I began my visit with #46. OMG!!! 5 *s!!
I followed up with #41. Not as deep and rich, but
still a lovely beer.
Just up the street from Hopcat are two fine brewpubs: Traffic Jam, and Motor City. Opening here in the spring will be Jolly Pumpkin, a justly famous MI microbrewery! Detroit rocks!
It's nice to be able to park the car and walk to so many pubs, cafes, and stores. And it just keeps on getting better and better. We even saw bicycle cops! In Detroit! We walked over to Avalon Bakery for coffee and cookies (vegan choices available), looking forward to next Monday's pub crawl here with friends. And this weekend we are off to Buffalo for a brief visit, to see an art exhibit and hopefully visit at least one downtown brewpub. Keep watching here for all the exciting details!
Mapman
Back alley door, Detroit.
Mapman Mike
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