Indiana, Part 4 (Conclusion)

Selfie at the bar inside Brick House Grill

     The Brick House Grille in downtown Huntington, Indiana was quiet on a late Monday afternoon.  They had several craft beer taps, as well as bottles.  I opted for another pumpkin ale, this one called Kentucky Pumpkin Barrel Ale.  At 10% alcohol, this is served in a 10 oz glass, and is made for sipping.  Damn, that was one fine beer!  I guess that another name for this weekend trip could be "The Pumpkin Ale Trale (or perhaps Trail, but that doesn't rhyme as well).  Anyway, I sipped to my heart's content.  As I neared the bottom of the glass I felt more and more like taking up residence at the keyboard of the currently vacant piano bar.  I'm certain the few patrons present would not have minded hearing a bit of Beethoven, Couperin, Liszt or Philip Glass from a slightly tipsy classical pianist.

Kentucky Pumpkin Barrel Ale (**** stars)

     There is a figurine of sorts in the above photo, too.  It resembles me a lot, and the tiny thing seems to be dipping something into the glass, perhaps contemplating a swim (or maybe it's just me holding the camera steady).  The beer packed a nice spicy kick.  Afterwards, Deb drove us back to the Quality Inn and we had dinner in our room.  I had a large left over half of a delicious sandwich in the fridge from yesterday's dinner at Mad Anthony's.  Deb had bought herself an Udon Noodle microwave dish at Kroeger.  We settled in for a night of reading, resting, and 6000 channel tv.

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     Next morning dawned dark, cloudy, wet, and generally crappy.  We had hoped to visit downtown Huntington (the courthouse was open today) and do some local walking trails.  I was also holding out hope that there would be time to visit Bryon, Ohio on the way home.  Another fine courthouse awaited, and an intriguing-sounding brewpub.  After our motel breakfast (oatmeal, toast, juice, tea) we drove the short distance to downtown Huntington.  It was mighty quiet.  We parked and walked down to the river.  The bridge here is large, as the river is very wide.  An island sits amidst the river, and the bridge crosses it as well as the two parts of the river.  By the time we headed back towards the courthouse, it was raining.

Inside the courthouse, Huntington, IN (pop. 17,400)

  Beorn is parked downtown.  The building on right

was undergoing major renovations.

     We had to pass through a metal detector to visit the courthouse.  One of the deputies was very friendly, and as soon as he found out we were tourists he came over to talk to us.  He told us where to find the local museum and the full history of the courthouse.  Everyone we met in these small towns was very friendly, especially in the downtown tourist info buildings.  The main street has no traffic lights, and is very pedestrian friendly.  Because of the rain, and because I needed a haircut, I couldn't resist a walk-in stylists' window add promising haircuts for $10.  I looked even more handsome than usual when I walked out of there.  

     It quickly became evident that this was not going to be an outdoorsy kind of day.  There were a few other fine pubs and cafes in town I wished to visit, but we had to be home today. Rather than hang around Huntington and watch the rain, we headed for Bryan, Ohio, which was about halfway home.  Coffee and beer in Bryan sounded good, so we left Huntington with some reluctance, hoping to return with our bikes some fine spring day.

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     It rained heavily all the way to Ohio.  Well before exploring some of Indiana, we had extensively visited dozens of small towns in Ohio over the years, as well as their four big cities (Cincinnati, Cleveland, Columbus, and Toledo).  Northwest Ohio was our specialty, especially the towns along the Maumee River.  However, somehow we had never made it to Bryan.  I was looking forward to my first visit.  The particular brew pub we were searching for closed from 2 pm till 5 pm (much like traditional English pubs), so I wanted to arrive around noon hour if possible.

     The heavy rain stopped during our short visit to town, but it was still raining.  Bryan feels like a city, more so than any of the other smaller centers visited on this trip (Napoleon, Defiance, Huntington, Wabash, and Peru).  A wide main street (north-south) passes the courthouse, but a second busy street passes east-west.  These streets are lined with storefronts, but the rear of the courthouse has a quieter street with some shops, as does the south side.  So the downtown area is spread around the four sides of the courthouse, and we explored the entire area.

Courthouse in Bryan, Ohio (pop. 8,500)

Another view of the courthouse in Bryan.

     We arrived shortly after noon, spending a bit of time exploring the courthouse.  A lot of impressive detail went into the creating of these old buildings, and this one was no exception. We wandered around freely (no metal detector), then headed for lunch.  

 Courthouse interior.

Courthouse interior

     Deb had spotted the brewpub on our drive around the courthouse.  It's on the southwestern edge of the central plaza, a block from the courthouse.  It's in an old church, and it's called Father John's.  It turned into one of the greatest pub visits this avid pub-goer has ever had!

     The church had sat vacant for around ten years before the owner decided what he wanted to do with it.  He created a very atmospheric restaurant and brewery in the basement.  In so doing he has created a destination brewpub, worth visiting from Detroit.  I can't wait to get back here and try the rest of the beers!

Part of the bar at Father John's Brewpub.

     We weren't certain we could find something to eat.  However, today's soup was a vegan squash, and Deb ordered a bowl of it.  I ordered their veggie bean burger and was not disappointed.  I also ordered Pumpkin Pie Ale, continuing a theme I had been following for the entire trip.  Though loaded with spices and quite good (***), it fell behind all the other great pumpkin ales I had over the past three days.  As I would be driving home afterwards, I only had one pint.  Check out the beer menu and try to guess why I wish to return here, soon.

Beer Menu, Father John's, Bryan, Ohio

Interior of Father John's

Buddhist Room at Father John's!

     Some serious time and money was spent getting this incredible space ready.  The basement is quite large, and divided into different spaces. There are at least two separate rooms besides the large room, which itself is divided into smaller, cozy spaces.  The bar is in the shape of a large horseshoe, and is spacious and has comfortable stools.  They don't bottle, but they do sell growlers of their ales.  Details abound, and I took more than one walk around.  The garden has a wonderful outdoor seating area for fine days, too.  This was a spectacular way to end a very fun trip.

     We strolled the downtown areas after lunch, finding Seasons Coffee and Bistro on Main Street across from the courthouse.  We had coffee before leaving for home.  The drive back to Detroit was a nightmare, with downpour after downpour hitting us on the I 80 Tollway and then I 75 north.  Construction on both highways did not help matters.  Still, I had fresh memories of Father John's in my head.  We'll be back, hopefully with friends.  I rounded out my six pack purchases with Crooked Tree IPA from a favorite Michigan brewery, and six singles, including two with ginger!  A bottle of single malt Scotch at the duty free store in Detroit completed my alcohol purchases.

Mapman Mike

Indiana, Part 3

     We drove the old scenic highway along the Wabash River between Peru and Wabash.  We had much of the afternoon to spend in Wabash, so we headed to Paradise Spring Park, near downtown. The trail here is paved and very short, but there is a platform to view the river and a railroad trestle. A number of historic wooden cabins are here, too.  The upcoming weekend chili festival was being held here, and preparations had already begun.

       We decided to check out the main street next. After going the wrong way on a few one-way streets, I managed to safely park the vehicle and we tried our luck at walking.  All three main towns--Peru, Wabash and Huntington--sit on both sides of the Wabash River, with the main downtown area north of the local bridge. The courthouses in all three are splendid, but the Wabash one has a special history. Wabash was the first town to be illuminated at night by electric lights.  Guess how they did it?

Wabash Court House, Wabash, IN (pop. 10,500)

     They suspended four powerful spotlights atop the courthouse in 1880, shining them down upon the city.  That must have been a very spooky scene.  In one blow, appreciation of the night sky was wiped out.  Astronomy has never recovered.  Today was still a holiday Monday, and the courthouse was closed.  It sits almost at the top of a high bluff overlooking the river and downtown area below.

     Notice the antique store across the street, closed today.  The next photo is a close up of their shop window.

     After we looked at the photo at home, Deb noticed the two cat figurines in the background.  See, I could have said I meant for that to happen in the photo, but I didn't.  So now you know how honest I am.  Everything you read here is true, even the elephant story (coming soon).

     Wabash has a real treasure of a hotel downtown, a fancy place called The Charley Creek Inn.  It resides in one of the larger buildings I have ever seen in a small town, a four-storey, full block building lovingly restored and currently just a bit beyond our price range.  The lobby is beautiful, and free to visit.  There is also a wine shop, with free tastings, and a bar/restaurant, which was my goal this afternoon.  We got comfortable and I ordered up a nice pint of Rogue IPA (*** stars).  Quiet afternoons spent in a cozy pub are one of my favorite things to do, especially if with a good buddy. Deb is a good buddy, even if she can't drink.

     Directly across the street from the hotel is Modoc Cafe, and here begins the long-awaited elephant saga.  Modoc was a female elephant visiting town with a circus.  She and two female elephant friends were startled by a barking dog near them, and they all bolted.  Modoc wandered a bit further, and sniffed out some roasting peanuts from a store on the site of the cafe.  She barged through the doors, ate her fill, then left again, beginning a five-day walkabout.  She made national news for a week before being recaptured, eventually lured back by freshly baked loaves of bread, made especially for her.  Here is an article from the day (Friday the 13th, 1942), concerning the great Wabash elephant hunt.

Beorn, our VW Tiguan, parked at the scene.

Murals, statues, and a cafe celebrate Modoc the elephant.

Historic marker outside the cafe.

Cute elephant photo, inside the cafe.

Let's all adopt an elephant!

     The cafe is filled with elephant memorabilia.  I read the children's coloring book captions to get the full story of Modoc.  Next door to the cafe is Bradley Brothers, where their coffee is roasted (originally they roasted peanuts). We bought a package of Pumpkin Spice Coffee to take home.  We sat and had coffee and chocolate-covered espresso beans before setting out on our final adventure today in Wabash.

     We found Charley Creek Walking Trail at the back of O.J. Neighbors Elementary School.  Though a short trail, it is very scenic, all forested, and it follows and crosses Charley Creek.  Though only 3/4 of a mile one way, an extension is possible at the end, once it arrives at the sports ground.  Simply turn left, crossing over a trampled fence, and follow a wide path still within the woods to an old cabin that sits above the creek.  We managed over two miles before returning to our vehicle.

Charley Creek Trail, Wabash, IN

     After hiking we left Wabash and returned to Huntington.  That adventure will be covered in Part 4.  Hope to see you there!

Mapman.

Indiana, Part 2

     We awoke Monday morning to some of the heaviest rain I have ever seen.  We watched it from our motel room, and we watched it from the breakfast room.  By the time we left (around 10 am) it had mostly stopped raining, but the sky was dark and threatening.  We drove west on US 24 towards Peru, seat of Miami County.  If you've ever read any of the WPA Guide series, written in the 1930s, you would know that obtaining the county seat was a really big deal back then.  Lavish courthouses were built, and Peru was no exception.  The canal reached here, stimulating growth, followed about twenty years later by the railroad.

     Speaking of the canal, there is a lock in Lagro that can be visited.  Remnants include the narrow canal itself between two stone walls.  Nothing remains of the actual lock.  Still, it is fun to stop and visit.  Located between Huntington and Wabash on Old 24, there is a small picnic area and children's playground, as well as a restored canal era cabin.  Peek in the windows to see a restored and furnished kitchen and a bedroom.  I'm not sure when it is ever open.  Beorn, our VW Tiguan, sits patiently awaiting our return.

Canal lock and original canal passageway on right, Lagro, IN

      Wabash is not far from Lagro, but we had decided to head to Peru first and work our way back to our motel in Huntington.  The courthouse was closed today because of the holiday (Columbus Day), so we walked around downtown.

Courthouse, Peru, IN.  Pop. 11,100.

      Within site of the courthouse roof is the birthplace of Cole Porter, a big, beautiful old place that is now an Inn!  The town has a festival dedicated to Porter's music, too.  Might be worth checking out. Olie Olsen was also from here.  Peru was also a major circus town, and circuses used to winter here in some of the barns.  We did not explore the circus history on this trip, as everything was closed.  However, the next installment of this blog article will have a circus story to tell, when we get to Wabash.

Deb stands in front of the Cole Porter birthplace.

Peru, IN

     It was time for lunch.  Just across the tracks on the main street, next to the river and just past the courthouse, sat Smitty McMusselmans' Irish Pub (*** stars).  Recently opened and beautifully restored, this is a must visit for pub lovers.  I was not happy with the tap selection, so I went with a bottle of this Pumpkin beer (*** 1/2 stars):

     It was very good, and from Portland.  After lunch I went to the liquor store next door and bought a six pack of it.  Two sixers now purchased and there were two more to go.  The lovingly carried out pub restoration kept our eyes busy the entire time we were there.  Even the bathrooms are worth a visit, being amongst the finest I have ever had the pleasure to experience.  Deb said the same about hers. The pub looks as if it has been here for a long time. However, it was a very decrepit, run down building that was purchased last October.  After untold hours of work and money spent (the upper floor was collapsing onto the main floor when the new owners first arrived), it opened last March.  Speaking of the upper floor, it has been turned into a family room.  Great idea!  Keep the kids from the main bar, leaving it more for the adults.  However, there is a bar upstairs, too, with bar stools.  This bar is strictly for the kids.  There are large jars of candy behind the counter.  Kids can sit at the bar and order candy. Damn!  Where was that idea when I was six?!

Downstairs at Smitty's, Peru, IN.

     Back into downtown we went, just strolling.  Soon we were in a cafe.  Aroma Cafe fit the bill nicely, and I enjoyed one of the better Americano coffees I've ever had.  The store itself isn't much to look at, but the coffee is great, and it is on the main street.

From Aroma Cafe, downtown Peru, IN

     Peru and surrounding towns have their act together as far as walking and biking trails go.  When I visited in 2008 there was a one mile trail along the river.  Now there are nearly 40 miles of interconnected trails.  We had found out from our barmaid about some of them, and went for a small sample walk on the outskirts of town.  This is a very possible biking destination for us next year. 

     We found a secret parking area and walked north along the trail, crossing the old railway bridge that now serves as a major link between Peru and towns to the south.  The Wabash River is very wide here, and it must have cost a pretty penny to reuse the old bridge.  An information sign tells of a particularly nasty derailment on this bridge in which the engineer was killed.  It includes an old photo, too.

View of the Wabash River from the bike trail bridge in Peru, IN

View of the highway bridge from the bike trail bridge.

     After our hike we left town, following Old US 24 eastbound towards Wabash, seat of Wabash County.  More exploring and craft beer awaited.  Join me in Part 3 to hear all about it.  There will be a fascinating elephant/circus story, too.

Mapman Mike

Indiana Two-Nighter: Part One

     Originally planned as a late-season camping trip, things had to be replanned when the weather forecast suggested we do something else.  We booked a two-night stay at a Quality Inn in Huntington, IN, and decided to explore three county seats along the Wabash River and US 24: Peru, Wabash and Huntington itself.  I had briefly visited these towns in the summer of 2008, driving west from Detroit to Colorado Springs, using US 24 as my main highway.  I had driven alone that year, and have been wanting to get Deb to some of these places since then.

      We left Sunday morning, driving south to Toledo and catching on to US 24 from just west of there.  The highway follows the Maumee River, passing through little towns like Waterville, Grand Rapids, Napolean, and Defiance before crossing the border into Indiana just east of Fort Wayne.  We have visited the Ohio portion of the trip many times, and planned on making a few stops today before reaching Fort Wayne, which was our dinner destination.

     Cruising along old 24 between Waterville and Grand Rapids, we passed a sign that said "Road Closed 9 Miles Ahead: Local Traffic Only."  With the river on one side and farm fields on the other, I figured there must be another solution to this problem, so continued driving. Soon we were in the land of traffic hell.  Grand Rapids, a small, scenic little town along the Maumee, has a highway bridge, a railway bridge, a restored part of the old canal, a dam, many parks, and yes, even some rapids.  As we turned a corner, we were suddenly confronted with vehicle and pedestrian gridlock.  It was the town's Apple Butter Festival.  To someone trying to get past the place, it was pure hell.  It only took about 25 minutes, moving inch by inch, trying to negotiate streets clogged with cars and people, but it seemed as if most of the day was spent trying to escape the nightmare.  Throngs and throngs of people milled about, with about fifty to sixty troopers, deputies and cadets trying to direct traffic, and residents renting out their lawns for a ten dollar parking space, all taking place on very narrow streets. This is one reason I never carry a gun--I'd be opening the car windows and shooting left and right!  Small town apple butter festivals in which no one can properly move, drive, park or enjoy are not my cup of beer.

     In short, the highway was closed and we were forced into the small intestine of traffic flow through Grand Rapids.  Next time I am going to obey those detour signs!  We finally made it to Napoleon, and I needed refreshment.  Napoleon is also on the Maumee River, and boasts one of the finest courthouse exteriors I have ever seen.

     Directly across the street from this amazing building are two bar/restaurants.  One was closed, but happily Rics was open.  The closed place had incredible craft beer selections.  Rics had a few bottles of interest, but nothing interesting on their taps.  I tried a bottle of local brew, called Mitternacht, from nearby Flatrock Brewery.  It had lots of flavour, being a lighter German-style dark beer, and I would have it again, preferably on draft (** 1/2 stars).  Deb and I split a veggie burger, walked the quiet streets of downtown, then headed on our way to Defiance.

     The new US 24 is four lanes all the way to I 469 in Fort Wayne, a great way to get somewhere fast (such as Indianapolis, for instance).  However, the old highway still meanders along the Maumee River, and is one of the more scenic roads in all of the Midwest.  In Defiance we stopped for coffee. Cabin Fever was closed downtown, so we headed uptown a bit to Bigbee. Their Pumpkin Spice coffee was delicious.  It was going to be a pumpkin-spicey kind of holiday, as will be soon noted by the steadfast and perceptive reader.

     This is my only photo today of the muddy Maumee River, taken on our short but lovely woodland hike at Blue Cast Springs, Indiana.  Located just inside the State line along US 24, it's easy to miss.  A small parking area amidst a cornfield, with a small sign, is all there is to show.  If you are speeding or daydreaming, you will miss it.  It's at the corner of Blue Cast Road and Old 24 (Ohio calls the old road County Road 424; Indiana refers to it as Old 24, which I like better)).  There is a hiking trail nearby that leads to overlooks of the river.  A nice little loop can be managed.  The springs are located in a large ravine (currently marked "Trail Closed") in the form of two concrete wells.  Back near the parking area, a second trail goes to the site of a former sanatorium, where the foundations can still be marked out.  This was a fun stopover, and a chance one at that, thanks to my keen-eyed navigator.

     It was 5:30 pm when we pulled into Mad Anthony Brewing Company in Fort Wayne, IN. This was our second visit and I was as excited as a kid entering a favourite candy shop!  I soon had a pint of Punkenhead in front of me, and it was very, very special (**** stars).   

     We ordered an appetizer, some hummous and veggies, and got settled in for an autumn evening at the pub.  We had brought games with us to play, but we leafed through some local free papers, including the newest edition of Great Lakes Brewing News, instead.  The place had a nice dinner time buzz to it.  One large family group was in the special room, the bar stools were filled, and many tables had customers.  This is a great pub (*** stars overall), and I'm glad I had the opportunity to return.  We first came here in July, after arriving in town from Detroit on a steam train excursion.  We took a taxi that day and came here for lunch, before returning to our train.

     I eventually ordered a second pint of the delicious pumpkin and spiced brew, and then we ordered dinner.  Deb drove the short journey along US 24 to our Quality Inn in Huntington (due to medication she is on, she is unable to drink; however, she can sample a wee dram).  The hotel was exceedingly quiet tonight, with maybe six other cars in the parking lot.  I had left Fort Wayne with a six-pack of Mad Anthony IPA, the first of four packs I was to acquire on this trip.  I was also on the lookout for a good bottle of single malt Scotch.  The trip was off to a fun start.  However, rain was predicted for tomorrow.  We had some hiking and downtown exploring on the menu.  We would have to see what was in store for us when we awoke.  (To Be Continued)

Mapman