We awoke Monday morning to some of the heaviest rain I have ever seen. We watched it from our motel room, and we watched it from the breakfast room. By the time we left (around 10 am) it had mostly stopped raining, but the sky was dark and threatening. We drove west on US 24 towards Peru, seat of Miami County. If you've ever read any of the WPA Guide series, written in the 1930s, you would know that obtaining the county seat was a really big deal back then. Lavish courthouses were built, and Peru was no exception. The canal reached here, stimulating growth, followed about twenty years later by the railroad.
Speaking of the canal, there is a lock in Lagro that can be visited. Remnants include the narrow canal itself between two stone walls. Nothing remains of the actual lock. Still, it is fun to stop and visit. Located between Huntington and Wabash on Old 24, there is a small picnic area and children's playground, as well as a restored canal era cabin. Peek in the windows to see a restored and furnished kitchen and a bedroom. I'm not sure when it is ever open. Beorn, our VW Tiguan, sits patiently awaiting our return.
Canal lock and original canal passageway on right, Lagro, IN
Wabash is not far from Lagro, but we had decided to head to Peru first and work our way back to our motel in Huntington. The courthouse was closed today because of the holiday (Columbus Day), so we walked around downtown.
Courthouse, Peru, IN. Pop. 11,100.
Within site of the courthouse roof is the birthplace of Cole Porter, a big, beautiful old place that is now an Inn! The town has a festival dedicated to Porter's music, too. Might be worth checking out. Olie Olsen was also from here. Peru was also a major circus town, and circuses used to winter here in some of the barns. We did not explore the circus history on this trip, as everything was closed. However, the next installment of this blog article will have a circus story to tell, when we get to Wabash.
Deb stands in front of the Cole Porter birthplace.
Peru, IN
It was time for lunch. Just across the tracks on the main street, next to the river and just past the courthouse, sat Smitty McMusselmans' Irish Pub (*** stars). Recently opened and beautifully restored, this is a must visit for pub lovers. I was not happy with the tap selection, so I went with a bottle of this Pumpkin beer (*** 1/2 stars):
It was very good, and from Portland. After lunch I went to the liquor store next door and bought a six pack of it. Two sixers now purchased and there were two more to go. The lovingly carried out pub restoration kept our eyes busy the entire time we were there. Even the bathrooms are worth a visit, being amongst the finest I have ever had the pleasure to experience. Deb said the same about hers. The pub looks as if it has been here for a long time. However, it was a very decrepit, run down building that was purchased last October. After untold hours of work and money spent (the upper floor was collapsing onto the main floor when the new owners first arrived), it opened last March. Speaking of the upper floor, it has been turned into a family room. Great idea! Keep the kids from the main bar, leaving it more for the adults. However, there is a bar upstairs, too, with bar stools. This bar is strictly for the kids. There are large jars of candy behind the counter. Kids can sit at the bar and order candy. Damn! Where was that idea when I was six?!
Downstairs at Smitty's, Peru, IN.
Back into downtown we went, just strolling. Soon we were in a cafe. Aroma Cafe fit the bill nicely, and I enjoyed one of the better Americano coffees I've ever had. The store itself isn't much to look at, but the coffee is great, and it is on the main street.
From Aroma Cafe, downtown Peru, IN
Peru and surrounding towns have their act together as far as walking and biking trails go. When I visited in 2008 there was a one mile trail along the river. Now there are nearly 40 miles of interconnected trails. We had found out from our barmaid about some of them, and went for a small sample walk on the outskirts of town. This is a very possible biking destination for us next year.
We found a secret parking area and walked north along the trail, crossing the old railway bridge that now serves as a major link between Peru and towns to the south. The Wabash River is very wide here, and it must have cost a pretty penny to reuse the old bridge. An information sign tells of a particularly nasty derailment on this bridge in which the engineer was killed. It includes an old photo, too.
View of the Wabash River from the bike trail bridge in Peru, IN
View of the highway bridge from the bike trail bridge.
After our hike we left town, following Old US 24 eastbound towards Wabash, seat of Wabash County. More exploring and craft beer awaited. Join me in Part 3 to hear all about it. There will be a fascinating elephant/circus story, too.
Mapman Mike
Mapman Mike
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