THURSDAY
We have really come to like Kansas City, Missouri, over the years. Usually we just blasted through it on our way to New Mexico and Colorado. We finally paid our first serious visit there in 2010. Previously we had visited with my mom and dad, as we began our Santa Fe Trail journey from here many years ago. Last time (2010) we had booked concert tickets to hear my favourite pianist, Ivan Morovec. The KC Marathon was the same weekend, so Deb also booked herself into the half marathon, as a race walker. Just before we left Detroit, the concert was cancelled due to Morovec becoming ill. Instead, we ended up at the KC ballet on the Saturday night. There we met Tempe Ostergren, the principal female ballerina for the company. She was off with an injury, and ended up sitting near us in the balcony for the performance. We got to chatting, became Facebook friends, and have kept in touch over the years. She also likes astronomy!
Finally, we got to visit KC again this year, and to see her dance! She had the lead role in "Giselle," a full-length classical ballet. We booked our trip for the second weekend performances, on the Friday night. The dancing by the entire company was first rate, but, as expected, Tempe's dancing went beyond anything we had ever seen. She is a one in a million dancer, and we will be back next year to see her again. And hopefully again. The old injury still bothers her (tendonitis, ankle), but it didn't show. At all. We got to chat with her at length, this time after her stellar performance. We also met her mom, Virginia, and her little pooch, though where he was sitting during the show I know not.
Tempe was on the billboards! And the cover of the program!
Tempe giving the performance of a lifetime in Giselle, with the KC Ballet.
We flew Spirit Airlines to KC from Detroit. I do not advise this. We will not do it again. The flights themselves were great, very smooth and quiet. The planes are new and the seats comfortable. There are other issues, however, which I will not go into just now. Next time, we will fly Southwest.
Upon arrival at KCI, it was late Thursday afternoon. We checked in to our nearby airport hotel (Comfort Inn--it was pretty good) after picking up our rental car from Avis (great deal from Orbitz). Then we headed to the art museum. We have been here before, twice I think, and love the Nelson Atkins Museum. It has a major collection, and everything is impressively displayed. There is a wonderful new wing added to the older section, making for a very large space to display art.
Deb in the ancient art wing. (2010 photo)
Deb in the outside sculpture garden. (2010 photo)
This time, however, we were thwarted. Once a month (3rd Thursday), the museum is host to loud bands and crushing crowds, none of which has anything to do with art, but only with getting the body count up at the museum. We arrived, then left. We headed to one of many shopping and dining districts next, a Spanish-themed area we have visited before. It was very cold, damp and unpleasant outside as we trudged around looking for a vegan-friendly restaurant. It did not take long to find one!
Eden Alley is a wonderful place, downstairs at a Unitarian Church. While the atmosphere falls far short of St Martins in the Crypt in London, the food does not. We enjoyed a terrific meal. I also enjoyed a bottled cider from Angry Orchard, apple-ginger-peach. Deb had Yogi Vanilla Hazelnut Tea, and she is on the lookout for it in stores! Deb had this for dinner...POLENTA (vegan/gluten+soy+nut-free) Organic corn
polenta infused with onions, carrots, garlic, coconut oil and spices,
baked, dusted and grilled with flax meal, served over stewed black beans
and tomatoes with steamed broccoli, red salsa, micro-greens and a smoky
jalapeno lime coconut cream sauce.
I had this...CURRY LENTIL BURGER (vegan+soy-free) A lovely patty
made with lentils, black beans, flaxmeal, onion, carrot, sundried
tomato, sunflower seeds, herbs and spices…served on a local Farm to
Market bun with saffron garlic edenaise, tomato, red onion, with red
raisin chutney and curry spinach sauce, with mixed field greens...served
with a side of popcorn.
After dinner we browsed in a few stores, including a very good 4-storey Barnes and Noble Bookstore. I wish Detroit had one of these downtown. We purchased a lovely card for Tempe, and a gift certificate. The show was 24 hours away!
FRIDAY
We are about a month away from a week-long trip to London as I write this. Deb will have to survive a 7 hour flight eastbound, and a 9 hour one westbound. This will test her definition of "RA remission" to the max. We have several long walks planned, as we continue to try and complete two long distance paths over there. We may even be able to get tickets to the ballet. Anyway, we are in the early stages of gearing up our walking legs for London. As part of our structured program, Thursday and Friday were scheduled for longer walks. Thursday we walked in the North Terminal in Detroit, awaiting our flight to KC. This is the smaller terminal, but it is still 1/2 mile long. We had no trouble completing our walk there. Today, however, we were wide open as to where to walk. Deb searched out a few places on-line. I finally selected the town of Weston, where we would walk on the Bluffs Trail, near and along the Missouri River.
The walk was great, and we saw our first daffs of the season! The hillside and forest were filled with singing cardinals and robins. The fresh air felt really good, not to mention the sunny, warm temperatures. Even better was visiting the town of Weston. Not only did it have a really fun main street with some cool shops, but there was a brewpub, a winery cafe and tasting room, and a distillery tasting room! And the Celtic store has whiskey and Scotch tastings. Always bring a designated driver when visiting Weston, MO! After the walk we headed straight for O'Malley's, an 1842 Irish Pub (the town was founded in 1837). Home to the Weston Brewing Company, I had the best Stout I have ever had. It was dark, bitter, and full of flavour, and I will willingly return to have another someday. Later, I enjoyed two mini-shots of McCormicks, their Bourbon and then their Scotch blend, in their downtown tasting room. Both hit the spot. I purchased a double shot of their rum to enjoy back at the hotel, and later found it to be delicious!
Inside O'Malley's Irish Pub
Outside the Pub
Main Street, Weston, MO.
Kauffmann, approaching from Crosstown.
Inside the Kauffman
Inside the Kauffman.
Kauffman Center.
In the afternoon we returned to our hotel, rested up for an hour, then headed back to KC. In Facebook conversations leading up to our trip, Tempe had suggested three KC vegan-friendly restaurants for us. We had already tried Eden Alley--now it was time to try Cafe Gratitude. We parked at the underground garage at the Kauffman Center, picking up our ballet tickets, and then walking downhill to the nearby restaurant for dinner.
Cafe Gratitude is in the Crosstown District of KC, near the historic and well-used train station. We have visited the station previously, and also have been through here four times on the Southwest Chief. In addition to trains to Chicago and points west, there is twice daily service to St. Louis, on the opposite side of Missouri. The restaurant was amazing, and we even had dessert! I had the Humble, from the entree section, whilst Deb enjoyed (thoroughly!) her CLT, called the Extraordinary, from the sandwich section. Dessert was vegan, chocolate, decadent, and delicious. Mercifully, it was small portioned.
We walked uphill to the Kaufmann Center, about 1/2 mile away. We needed the walk. The Center is pretty new to KC, and is home to not only the ballet company, but also the symphony and the opera. For a city with a metro area pop. of about 1.5 million people, KC is a cultural mecca, achieving well beyond what other cities its size can manage. The hall is modern and magnificent. The architect was Moshe Safdie, and he outdid himself. This is one of the most gorgeous and impressive performing arts building I have ever seen, or had the pleasure of visiting.
Kauffman after dark.
Watching Tempe dance was the thrill of a lifetime! She lit up the stage whenever she was on, and it was impossible to watch other dancers. There wasn't a bad dancer in the entire company (about forty dancers!), but when Tempe took the stage, they mattered not a whit. Her ability to act the role really sets her apart, as well as her ability to make dance seem the most natural thing that a human body can do. She also had a mad scene and a death scene, and both were perfect in every detail. The way her body went limp when she "died" was indescribable, and when her hair came down during the mad scene it sent shivers up and down my spine. However, when she returned in Act 2 as a dancing wraith, fresh from the grave, well, just watch out. This is dancing from beyond the beyond. She glides across the dimly lit stage as if she has no bones or muscles. Last year she danced the role of Mina in Dracula--can't believe we missed that! This, however, was a very good substitute.
Tempe lets her hair down during Giselle's mad scene.
Getting to speak with her afterwards, privately, was also a big thrill, as was meeting her very supportive and endearing mother. I had the feeling that Tempe would have stayed all night to talk with us, but after about twenty minutes I sorrowfully broke it off, allowing her to go home and get some rest. She is a true sweetheart, a really lovely woman, and as a dancer she is a force to be reckoned with. Until next time, Tempe. Dance on!!!
SATURDAY
We returned to the Saturday morning Riverfront Market, a favourite hangout of ours when visiting. There is a wonderful cafe on site, and dozens of vendors selling everything from fruit and veggies to art, crafts, baked goods, clothing, tea, spices, etc. It was very lively today. Yesterday the temps had reached the mid-sixties; today they would soar to the low 70s, and the crowds were out. We had breakfast at the cafe, enjoying vegan bagels and cream cheese, oatmeal, tea, and a free sample of their homemade vegan ice cream!
River Market, downtown KC (2010 photo)
The cafe in the market, a must when visiting KC.
It's open 7 days. (2010 photo)
We left for Lawrence, KS just before noon. It's only a 45 minute drive to this lively university town. Crossing the river into Kansas from Missouri brings the traveller to the beginning of the Prairies. The changes are subtle at first, but before Lawrence is reached the prairie landscape has made its presence known. Lawrence is a lot like Ann Arbor, MI, with an energetic and viable downtown shopping district, along with many cultural offerings. This is my fourth or fifth visit, mostly due to Free State Brewing Co. on the main street. This place makes awesome beer, and their Endeavour IPA this time really grabbed me.
Free State Brewing Co., Lawrence, KS
Free State samples. This visit I sampled Pale Ale,
Endeavor IPA, and Ironman Stout.
Endeavor IPA, and Ironman Stout.
Downtown Lawrence was jammed with people and
cars.
Lunch was at Zen Zero, Lawrence.
One of many cafes in downtown Lawrence.
After walking the entire length of the shopping district, we left Lawrence mid-afternoon, heading for our first visit to Leavenworth, KS. It is just across the river from the airport, and thus our hotel. The downtown recovery here is still in its infancy, but there are some good signs that it may prosper again someday. Home to an infamous prison, one can now buy tee shirts here that say "I spent time in Leavenworth." Ho ho. Very funny. Anyway, they had a brewpub, and so in I went. Another highlight was a restored old drug store, and a very fine kitchen things store (The Pot Rack).
High Noon Brewpub, downtown Leavenworth, KS
I had the Amber Ale, which was rich and flavourful,
as well as the Stampede Stout, also yummy. The
Whiskey River Stout was worth the trip to Leaven-
worth all by itself.
Restored corner drugstore, Leavenworth. The soda
counter was quite busy.
Near our hotel was a fancy schmancy shopping area called "Zona Rosa." This kind of stuff is not our cup of tea, but we needed some food. I tried Granite City Brewery, a chain. I tried their Bock Beer, which tasted like water. There was no vegan food on the menu, so we left. Then we went to Louie's, a bar. I had a Boulevard Pale Ale, from a famous KC brewery. No vegan food, but the beer was okay. Across the street was a branch of Noodles and Company, so Deb went and got us a takeaway. We headed back to our room for some much needed rest and refreshment, which included my double shot of rum from McCormick's! Deb was pretty worn out, so we just stayed in and rested for the night.
SUNDAY
We walked along a suburban path in the morning, right across from our hotel. Our flight left at noon. The best beer the airport could provide was a Goose Island IPA. It hit the spot just before boarding our sardine can of an airline seat. If you weigh more than 100 pounds, and are taller than 5' 4", do not fly Spirit. I mean, the seat space is totally ridiculous. Totally.
We were in Detroit early, but it took one hour and fifteen minutes for our suitcase to arrive on the conveyor. Nice. After some minimal shopping in Detroit (48 craft beer and some food--Deb insisted on buying food) we were home in Amherstburg by 6 pm. At 7:15 pm I was out the door with my telescope, heading for a night of observing at Hallam Observatory. It had been a really fun trip, and I hope we can go again next year!
Suburban walking trail, across from our Comfort
Inn, KCI. Our hotel is seen looking straight across the pond.
Mapman Mike
